What is the best way to straighten it without weakening the frame?… How can I stiffen it?It’s not uncommon to repurpose a trailer, or to find a reason for a trailer frame that needs new life. i own a shop,and i bent my little utility trailer ,like that i tied it down and took a porta -power and pulled it back in line with it,and now it does better than it ever did,you can tie it down and heat it ,and straiten it out that way,that's about the only way i know of to …

About half the trailers I buy have bent tongues. I have some extra 2 x 2 x.188 lying around for this project. This can only be achieved if all of the combined weight doesn’t exceed the manufactures recommended combined axle capacity. It was lucky that I did....after getting the floor off, I found that the front L-bracket crossmember was brokenPlease do comment, good or bad. Finished. The angular, vertical and horizontal components resist tension and compression (up and down motion) in the tongue as it goes about its normal duties.Bracing is commonly retro fitted to older trailers where the original construction of the tongue was more of an afterthought than a planned exercise. I’m just a poor farmer that has some experience with this sort of stuff and giving a couple recommendations on what would need to be accomplished before a task if that multitude can be completed safely.Can u send a book in from of PDF file I want start to built a trailor single axle pleaseAll our plans come in PDF format, and you are welcome to purchase the ones you need.Gussets of many types, all with different best uses.Example of a Torque Tube (Red) in a Trailer Frame. Squares of similar size give nearly the same torsional stiffening effect.Finally, continuous sides (especially when welded) will strengthen a trailer frame.It may be obvious, but the biggest stiffening effect for a trailer frame comes when it is welded rather than bolted — especially when reinforced with a few gussets. Good luck with the project.I’ve got a great video here (I should post it) that shows the stupidity of the triple torsion. They come in hundreds of varieties, and they all strengthen and stiffen corners and intersections.

Not just the main beams, but the cross members too.

Point loading like a tractor wheels is a much different use case than evenly distributed loading.
If getting it to you is the only reason for the bolts, then weld it.Yes, welding means removing paint, then re-painting after. I'd honestly just run it.

I'm going to have my welder box in the bend with stitch welds Monday and move on. Test it by jumping up and down on a corner of the trailer, and see if ONE corner moves a lot more than the others. Behind or in front of the rear most bend in the tongue or just behind the second bend. This is the "bulging" side of the bend. Some good background reading is the article on Typically, the most flexible portion of the trailer frame is at bolted connections. If you dont do something about it dont ever jack it up or use the jack with weight/veh on it.Add a center beam, move the jack to the center beam. See above for some simple bolting gusset ideas.

Borrowing your friend's boat for a weekend at the lake sounds like a great idea until you realize you've got to drive it there. Based on what you say, sounds like you are correct in making changes. What ever you do, please do not suck start a shot gun.The tongue isn't an issue, but I bed the jack not being straight up and down is annoying.I would get a piece of similar c channel or 1x4 rect tubing. In order of biggest bang for the buck to strengthen a folding trailer frame like the above, do these things. Straight tongues benefit from the additional of a brace and it is common to see the “ladder style” bracing on these trailers.Because bracing normally sits below the tongue, it bears the brunt of everyday use, so it pays to make it as strong and as low profile as possible. I don’t get why “engineering” doesn’t do their engineering before building and selling these trailers. My front outrigger is low vs. Dan's which is high. Oh well.

I’m no engineer and I dont claim tobbe.

Finished. Me, I'd hooke it to my truck then wrap a chain around the entire bent area, hook that to my skidsteer and pull it back out.
Another place of intersection is where the tongue mounts into the frame. One reason I decided to do a full frame up was the relatively insubstantial frame and floor. What type, and do I need 110 or 220 volt? I have looked over the bends and there is some buckling on the curb side rail as seen below.


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