My mom used white rice, soy sauce, garlic, scallions, and a wok. In The Fortune Cookie Chronicles, author Jennifer 8. Alongside the Coca-Cola, McDonald's, and KFCs that have penetrated China's core, I encountered a variety of cuisines that were more akin to my mom's cooking than the ones of America's Chinese restaurants: more vegetables, less meat, less oil. The Americanness of fortune cookies hit home a few years later, in a 1992 front-page story in the The Americanness of fortune cookies should have served as a hint for what else I was to learn about Chinese food. ({"reviews_widget":"\u003cstyle\u003e\n #goodreads-widget {\n font-family: georgia, serif;\n padding: 18px 0;\n width:565px;\n }\n #goodreads-widget h1 {\n font-weight:normal;\n font-size: 16px;\n border-bottom: 1px solid #BBB596;\n margin-bottom: 0;\n }\n #goodreads-widget a {\n text-decoration: none;\n color:#660;\n }\n iframe{\n background-color: #fff;\n }\n #goodreads-widget a:hover { text-decoration: underline; }\n #goodreads-widget a:active {\n color:#660;\n }\n #gr_footer {\n width: 100%;\n border-top: 1px solid #BBB596;\n text-align: right;\n }\n #goodreads-widget .gr_branding{\n color: #382110;\n font-size: 11px;\n text-decoration: none;\n font-family: \"Helvetica Neue\", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;\n }\n\u003c/style\u003e\n\u003cdiv id=\"goodreads-widget\"\u003e\n \u003cdiv id=\"gr_header\"\u003e\u003ch1\u003e\u003ca rel=\"nofollow\" href=\"https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/1002540.The_Fortune_Cookie_Chronicles\"\u003eThe Fortune Cookie Chronicles Reviews\u003c/a\u003e\u003c/h1\u003e\u003c/div\u003e\n \u003ciframe id=\"the_iframe\" src=\"https://www.goodreads.com/api/reviews_widget_iframe?did=DEVELOPER_ID\u0026amp;format=html\u0026amp;isbn=0446580074\u0026amp;links=660\u0026amp;review_back=fff\u0026amp;stars=000\u0026amp;text=000\" width=\"565\" height=\"400\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c/iframe\u003e\n \u003cdiv id=\"gr_footer\"\u003e\n \u003ca class=\"gr_branding\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\" href=\"https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/1002540.The_Fortune_Cookie_Chronicles?utm_medium=api\u0026amp;utm_source=reviews_widget\"\u003eReviews from Goodreads.com\u003c/a\u003e\n \u003c/div\u003e\n\u003c/div\u003e\n"}) My parents were always annoyed when we went to the "real Chinese restaurants" in Flushing, Queens, and I asked for my favorite dishes, beef with broccoli and lo mein. He always ordered the same thing: a bowl of wonton soup, an egg roll, rice, and chicken chow mein made with homegrown bean sprouts-all for $1.35. I wasn't, they felt, of China. Likewise, Peking Gourmet Inn outside Falls Church, Virginia, had to install a bulletproof glass window near table N17. Nonetheless, The Fortune Cookie Chronicles is a must read for lovers of Chinese food. Favorite chapter: "Why Chow Mein Became the Chosen Food of the Chosen People." But as interesting as the local food was to me, I was interesting to the locals. I had driven cars until bugs had splattered across my windshield like egg whites dropped in soup. My family even has one embedded in the children's names. Taiwan? She speaks Chinese perfectly. At the open seafood storefronts of Manhattan's Chinatown, my parents would pick through the bins of live crabs, sluggish but still menacing to a wide-eyed six-year-old girl. Old restaurants, clothing stores on Main Streets, and empty storefronts have been reborn as Chinese restaurants. Following the Powerball fortune cookie trail, I believed, was something that would help me unravel the nagging mysteries of Chinese food in America. A real Chinese cook! Right there on the subway, I decided to follow those fortune cookies back to their source-from the winners back to the restaurants, back to the factory and the people who write the fortunes, back to the very historic origins of fortune cookies. It was takeout. Passions seem lively and motivating, while obsessions sound dark and vaguely deviant. They inevitably ordered dishes that had eyeballs, like steamed whole fish with ginger and scallions. How many might have played the lottery with their lucky numbers? Virginal white rice would be doused with steaming sauces, the mingling of simmered soy sauce, piquant vinegar, slivers of ginger, and fragrant garlic. We either added sugar or insisted on having cups of ice water. That morning, as I read about the Powerball winners on the subway, people swarmed around me as usual. Dwight Eisenhower ordered his chicken chop suey from Sun Chop Suey Restaurant on Columbia Road in Washington, D.C., for decades. My siblings and I are known as ABCs, American-born Chinese. They control us more than we control them. Her dishes involved bones and shells-sweet-and-sour ribs, boiled garlic shrimp, chicken feet. But she never deep-fried chunks of meat, succulent and soft, then drenched them with rich, flavorful sauce. She used preserved foods: eerily translucent thousand-year-old eggs, spicy pickled bamboo shoots, vinegared mustard greens. Lee. Ostensibly I spent my fellowship year studying at Beijing University, but in reality I was educating myself by traveling cross-country from the deserts of Inner Mongolia to the lakes of Sichuan to the peaks of Tibet. Maybe the same thing was true of Chinese food back home: It's Chinese. For the story of the Powerball trail was the story of Chinese food in reverse. It's not surprising that the Powerball officials heard the same tale repeated over and over again across the twenty-nine states, from coast to coast. Chinese restaurants were neutral territory. 40,000 restaurants. I looked up the number online and dialed.

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